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 ‘Mental resilience is sometimes more important’

‘Mental resilience is sometimes more important’

04 Oct 2024 | By Venessa Anthony


  • Mountaineer Johann Peries on conquering the Seven Summits


Johann Peries made history as the second Sri Lankan to summit Mt. Everest, but his quest for greatness didn’t end there. Where most climbers might consider Everest the pinnacle of their careers, Johann decided to take on an even more ambitious challenge – the Seven Summits. This extraordinary undertaking involves climbing the highest peaks on each continent, a feat achieved by only a select few around the world.

In this candid interview with The Daily Morning, Johann opened up about his motivations, the mental and physical challenges he’s faced, and his vision of turning this personal journey into a national endeavour. As he prepares for his next expeditions to Antarctica’s Vinson Massif and South America’s Aconcagua, Johann shared his thoughts on mountaineering, overcoming obstacles, and the lessons he’s learned from nature’s highest peaks. Through this journey, he continues to inspire not only Sri Lankans but adventurers globally, proving that even climbers from tropical islands can conquer the world’s greatest mountains.


Following are excerpts from the interview:


Many climbers consider summiting Mt. Everest the pinnacle of achievement. What made you decide to take on the Seven Summits challenge, and how does it compare to your Everest experience?


It’s funny, because usually when people take on the Seven Summits, they start with the other mountains and then tackle Everest last, as it’s considered the mother of all mountains. My journey was different. Everest came first for me, and after summiting it once and climbing it once, the question became: “What’s next?” For most climbers, Everest marks the end of their story, but I wasn’t done. I love climbing – it’s something my father introduced me to from a young age. I needed another significant challenge to push myself, and that’s when I thought of the Seven Summits.

Initially, the idea seemed far-fetched. Completing the Seven Summits isn’t easy. Some people have even completed all seven in just one year, but I wanted to take on the challenge at my own pace. Each mountain has its own unique set of difficulties, and the journey is as much about the experience as it is about the achievement.


The Seven Summits represent a diverse range of environments, from Antarctica’s frozen wilderness to the high altitudes of Denali. How do you adapt to such different conditions, both physically and mentally?


One of the biggest challenges I face as a Sri Lankan climber is that we live on an island with very little altitude. Our highest point, Pidurutalagala, is only about 8,281 feet. Compare that to Everest or Denali, and it’s clear we don’t have the conditions to train in high altitudes or extreme environments.

Before each climb, I go through a process of testing my body’s ability to handle altitude. You push yourself and follow the rules of acclimatisation: climb high, sleep low. You adapt to your environment by gradually pushing your limits. Even then, there’s always a level of uncertainty – you never know for sure if your body will adjust to the high altitudes or extreme cold until you’re in the thick of it. Mental resilience plays a huge role here, and sometimes that’s even more important than physical readiness.


You’ve often spoken about the importance of making this journey a national effort. How do you plan to involve Sri Lankans in your expeditions, especially for the upcoming summits?


One of my main goals for this journey is to involve the Sri Lankan public in a meaningful way. We’re planning to launch a virtual campaign where people can join me in the climbs, step by step, from wherever they are. The idea is to create a virtual climb where Sri Lankans can follow my progress, track where I am, and feel like they’re part of the experience.

This is important to me because only around 350 people in history have completed the Seven Summits. For someone from a small tropical island like Sri Lanka, without access to the resources that climbers from larger nations have, it’s a massive achievement. I want the country to be part of it because it’s not just my journey – it’s a national journey.


Climbing these peaks is not just about physical endurance but also logistics and funding. How do you manage these elements, and what support systems have you built along the way?


The support system I’ve built is crucial. My team is my backbone. One person who has been with me from the beginning is Sajeda Akbarally. She’s been with me since my first attempt at Everest and has supported me every step of the way. She’s now my manager and handles everything from fundraising to logistics.

We also have an amazing group of volunteers, supporters, and sponsors who believe in this journey as much as I do. Funding is always a challenge because mountaineering is an expensive sport, especially when you’re attempting the Seven Summits. I’ve been fortunate to have had support from the corporate sector in Sri Lanka, and I hope they’ll continue to stand by me for the remaining summits.


From summiting Everest to now planning Antarctica’s Vinson Massif, what has been your most humbling moment in this journey, and how has it affected your perspective on life?


The most humbling moment for me was in 2016 during my first Everest attempt. After two months of gruelling climbing, I was just 400 metres from the summit when my guide told me that I had to turn back due to a malfunction with my oxygen tank. In that moment, all I could think was, “I don’t care, I’m going to keep going.” But my guide stopped me and made me realise that pushing forward could be fatal.

That experience was a major turning point. It taught me that you can’t conquer nature – it’s far bigger than any of us. Climbing isn’t about conquering mountains; it’s about summiting them with respect and understanding. That incident completely shifted my perspective on life and reinforced the importance of knowing when to step back.


Mountaineering is often described as a deeply personal journey. How do you handle moments of isolation and uncertainty during long expeditions, and what keeps you motivated when the summit feels out of reach?


Mountaineering is indeed a very personal experience. During those long expeditions, you often sit there, looking at the mountain ahead of you, and wonder, “Am I capable of this?” It’s natural to question yourself, especially when things get tough.

For me, it’s my faith that keeps me grounded and motivated. I meditate when I need to clear my head, and I remind myself of the bigger picture. Believing in yourself is crucial when you’re facing a seemingly insurmountable challenge. You need to keep your goal in sight, stay focused, and trust that you have what it takes to push forward.


In a sport dominated by Western athletes, what unique challenges have you faced as a Sri Lankan climber, and how do you navigate the global mountaineering community?


The global mountaineering community is a tight-knit one, and once you’re in it, you become part of a family. On the mountain, everyone’s lives depend on one another, and that creates a bond that transcends nationality.

However, there have been moments where I’ve felt like an outsider. Western climbers sometimes look at you and wonder how someone from a tropical island is attempting these extreme climbs. But I’ve always risen above that. Over time, I’ve built strong friendships with fellow climbers, and some have even come to Sri Lanka to visit me. I see it as an opportunity to show the world that Sri Lankans are resilient and capable of achieving anything, no matter where we come from.


What has been the most unexpected challenge in your Seven Summits journey so far, and how did you overcome it?


One of the most unexpected challenges I faced was during my first attempt at Everest. I never thought that being so close to the summit and having to turn back would be such a defining moment in my life. It tested me not only physically but mentally as well. The decision to turn back was tough, but it taught me the importance of patience and humility. That experience strengthened my resolve to return and complete the climb, and it made me appreciate the journey even more.


Given the extreme environments you’ve climbed in, how do you balance the pursuit of such dangerous goals with ensuring your own safety and wellbeing?


Safety is always the top priority when you’re mountaineering, no matter how much you want to reach the summit. I’ve learned that you can’t take unnecessary risks. It’s important to listen to your body, your team, and the environment. The mountain is always in control, and you have to respect that.

Over the years, I’ve built a strong support system and have always climbed with experienced guides who prioritise safety. We have protocols in place, and we make sure to stick to them. At the end of the day, no summit is worth risking your life for.


Once you complete the Seven Summits, do you have any plans to continue adventuring, or will your focus shift towards something else?


Right now, my focus is on completing the Seven Summits, but I’m sure that once I finish, there will be another challenge waiting for me. Climbing has become such an integral part of my life that I don’t see myself stopping anytime soon. After the Seven Summits, I’ll continue to look for ways to push myself and inspire others. There’s always another mountain to climb, whether literal or metaphorical.




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