• Stakeholders in need of guidance on various aspects of cosmetics

As Sri Lankan regulatory authorities are not involved in the regulation of social media-based marketing, the situation with regard to cosmetic products has turned harmful in certain aspects due to the absence of a marketing surveillance programme for these unregistered products.

These observations were made in a research on the “Analysis of knowledge, usage and the practice of total body care cosmetic products in the Western Province”, authored by L.M. Hettihewa (attached to the Colombo International Nautical and Engineering College’s [CINEC] Health Science Faculty’s Health and Medical Sciences Department) and K.G.I.M. Yasendri (attached to the Kotelawala Defence University’s Medical Faculty’s Cosmetic Sciences Department) and published in CINEC Academic Journal 5 (2) in September 2022.

The advancement in the cosmetic industry and the production of a large number of personal care products all over the world have resulted in an increase in related consumption. H. Shaaban’s “Exposure to endocrine (a messenger system comprised of feedback loops of the hormones released by internal glands of an organism directly into the circulatory system, thus regulating the distant target organ) disrupting compounds from personal care products: Can be reduced?” and “Endocrine disruptors from cosmetic products: Health impacts and regulatory methods” observed that the variety of inclusions in all cosmetic products has led to the excessive exposure of the world population to different types of chemicals which can induce adverse health effects. 

Of these chemicals, M.G. Soni, I.G. Carabin, and G.A. Burdock’s “Safety assessment of esters of phydroxybenzoic acid (parabens)” noted that parabens and phthalates are the most concerned harmful chemicals found in personal care products. Parabens, which are used commonly in cosmetic products, are an endocrine disruptor in certain in-vitro screening tests, per R. Golden, J. Gandy, and G. Vollmer’s “A review of the endocrine activity of parabens and implications for potential risks to human health”. Soni et al. mentioned that parabens are used as preservatives and that phthalates are used in nail polishers and hair sprays. But, per Golden et al., most of these chemicals are toxic and adversely affect different body systems. S.H. Safe’s “Endocrine disruptors and human health – Is there a problem? An update” noted that other chemicals also found in cosmetic products include triclosan (an antibacterial and antifungal agent), heavy metals, hydroquinone (skin lightening agent), and nitrosamines (ubiquitous carcinogens that are formed during the fermentation of various foods and tobacco and by the in-vivo reaction of nitrite preservatives with amines under the acidic conditions found in the gastrointestinal tract), which can, in turn, cause negative health impacts including allergies, endocrine disruption, birth defects, neurotoxicity, or cancers. A Chinese study mentioned that the negative impact of harmful chemicals in cosmetics can affect the environment and animals also. 

The Sri Lankan cosmetic industry emerged within the last eight years and has changed from primary functional products to more advanced products now. According to a news report, in 2014, the Sri Lankan local market had a collection of 4,000 cosmetic and beauty care products as per a report of the Cosmetic, Devices and Drugs Authority. Furthermore, a Saudi Arabian study, a US study, and E. Ghazali, P.C. Soon, D.S. Mutum, and B. Nguyen’s “Health and cosmetics: Investigating consumers’ values for buying organic personal care products” have pointed out that the increased purchasing power of consumers and raised awareness and concern in beauty and hygiene has positively impacted the growth of the beauty care industry. 

M. Napagoda, B. Dahanayake, S. Lankika, G. Dahanayake, M. Wannakukorala, R. Manampery, N. Jayasekera, T. Tiranagama, and D. Kumari’s “Popularity and usage of different skin care agents among the inhabitants of the Galle District” found that in 2019, 53% used skin care agents.

According to a Saudi Arabian study, a majority of the female population used cosmetic products on a daily basis, while over 50% had reported the use of deodorant, sunscreen, and night cream once a day, and 40% had indicated the use of lipstick/balm, shower gel, body lotion, makeup remover, and eyebrow pencils, one time per day. C.E. Cowan-Ellsberry, and S.H. Robison’s “Refining aggregate exposure: Example using parabens” emphasized that the simultaneous use of cosmetic products with the same ingredients without insight would lead to aggregate body system exposure. According to a Saudi Arabian study, 16% of female participants had experienced adverse effects from the use of cosmetic products, where the most complained-about cosmetic products were lotions (51%), face creams (27%), and deodorants (10%) and the most-reported adverse events were redness, itchiness, skin soreness, the breakage of hair, eye inflammation, the darkening of the armpits, and the discolouration of the face.

Hettihewa et al.’s study was done as a descriptive, cross-sectional survey of the population in the Western Province, and an online survey was the tool used for data collection. A non-probability convenient sampling type was used, and 385 participants were included. This study considered both the male and female population and included participants aged 18 to over 70 years.  

The majority of the responders were found to be undergraduates and female (71%). 

A total of 93% of them were aware of cosmetic products, 68% were aware of the composition of the cosmetic products, and 69% were convinced of potential adverse effects, while 25% had experienced side effects related to cosmetic product usage (93% were aware of potential allergies), and 39% had stopped the use of the products, but the rest had continued using the products they had selected. Most said that they use both herbal and synthetic products, while a majority also had no choice regarding whether it was a local or international product. 

A total of 56% had a brand preference while 44% were not interested in any brand. The most common resource was social media. The majority had bought products from cosmetic outlets, while others had bought from supermarkets and online stores. The majority spent less than Rs. 1,000 per month on such products. The majority use skin and body care products and the least expenses were borne for hair, nail, lip, and eye care. The majority were not aware of any risk of malignancy with cosmetic product usage.

Hettihewa et al. found that Sri Lankan adolescents use local and international products more or less equally despite their low cosmetic budget. Most chemicals included in many cosmetic applications available in Sri Lanka are harmful to different systems of the body in both an acute and chronic manner. Cosmetic product registration after ingredient analysis is not practised in Sri Lanka before marketing. The high usage of these products will have serious after-effects in the near future.

Clients take to social media as the best reference learning centre. This finding should be considered seriously because social media contain unregistered local as well as international cosmetic products. The high reference rate of these sites can be associated with the predictable high risk to society. Society spends a considerable amount of money on cosmetic products and it is, therefore, the responsibility of governmental regulatory authorities to address this issue and minimise cosmetic product-based adverse events.

Hettihewa et al. recommended a more standard wellness education programme about cosmetic usage and cosmetic product selection, criteria, and activities. All relevant stakeholders should be considered in an educational programme on cosmetic product selection, usage, requirements, and common ingredients. Participants from the Western Province showed significant knowledge of the composition, indications, and potential adverse effects of the product, but they need proper education on selecting all types of cosmetic products. Hettihewa et al. also recommended that audio and visual media be utilised by cosmetic regulatory authorities for the said purpose.