• Sankha Wanniatchi’s deep dive into the leopards of Horton Plains

Horton Plains National Park is best known for World’s End, the captivating cliff with a drop of about 870 metres (2,854 feet), offering stunning panoramic views of the surrounding misty mountains. But of late, the park has been offering another unique draw – leopards. And not just leopards, but leopards that have a distinctive appearance and different behaviours to the leopards found in other parts of Sri Lanka. 

Amateur wildlife photographer Sankha Wanniatchi has spent the past 11 years capturing the elusive beauty of the Horton Plains leopards. His passion for wildlife photography evolved from childhood family trips to national parks to become a passion project that he has used to create ‘Ghost of the Clouded Plains,’ a coffee table book that is part photography journal and part research book on the leopards of Horton Plains. 

The Sunday Morning Brunch sat down with Sankha for a chat on his deep connection with leopards, the meticulous process behind his book, and the unique characteristics of the Horton Plains leopard population.

From enthusiast to photographer to author

Sankha, a dedicated wildlife photographer for 14 years, traces his roots back to family excursions to Horton Plains from the tender age of three. Initially, he was a traveller with a penchant for camping across various national parks, taking his first steps into photography at the behest of one of his friends.

“I always used to love wildlife; it was my friend Ranga who pushed me to invest in a DSLR so I could capture moments when we used to go camping. I was not a photographer at the time,” he shared, adding that when he got that first DSLR, he had no idea photography would shape the next decade of his life, as he gradually shifted from a general photographer to a focused wildlife enthusiast, particularly drawn to the enigmatic leopards of Horton Plains.

The genesis of ‘Ghost of the Clouded Plains’ dates back two years when Sankha first said out loud his vision of creating a book centred around the leopards of Horton Plains. The process involved conceptualising the book’s structure, designing, and writing, which consumed nearly 1.5 years. The result is a comprehensive work that spans multiple chapters, incorporating approximately 35,000 words alongside a carefully curated collection of images.

Sankha collaborated with designer Kasun Pradeep from Wild Studios and Sulan de Silva for the book’s visual aesthetics. Additionally, Dr. Rohan Pethiyagoda contributed a section about Horton Plains itself, and Dr. Sriyanie Miththapala provided valuable reviews and contributions to make sure the book went well beyond the realms of photography alone, seamlessly blending stunning visuals with insightful narratives about leopard behaviour and the intricacies of wildlife photography.

“When you go through the book, you’ll understand it’s not just photography; it has pictures as well as lots of things we’ve written and we’ve used the images to support what we’re writing as well as to tell a visual story,” Sankha said. “For example, if we were discussing scratch post theory (i.e. why would a leopard use a scratch post or leave a marking on a tree), then we would write about that and we would find images from what I had that could be used to communicate it.”

The leopards of Horton Plains

The Horton Plains leopards stand apart from the leopards in other parts of the country, especially the dry zone, not just for their striking physical appearance but also for their adaptations to the mountainous park’s unique climate and topography. 

“One key factor of the Horton Plains leopards is that this is the only place in the world you can see the leopards in the mountain ranges with the mist and the rains and they have adapted,” Sankha said, noting that the Horton Plains leopards were the only leopards in Sri Lanka, and possibly the world, to live on such mountainous terrain. 

Sankha expounded on the distinct features that set the Horton Plains leopards apart from their counterparts in dry zones. Beyond their behavioural adaptations, the Horton Plains leopards boast distinctive physical characteristics that contribute to their thriving population in the cold climate. A closer look reveals a thicker fur coat, resembling a double layer, which acts as a protective shield against the chill. This distinguishing feature sets them apart from leopards inhabiting warmer, arid zones. 

“That’s why they look different,” Sankha said. “They’re the same subspecies but they have adapted. Their diet also plays a part. The Horton Plains leopards go after sambhur a lot. I have seen right in front of me, from families eating a carcass, to leopards dragging off a huge sambhur. Sambhur meat is more protein-dense and also nutritious and the water these leopards have access to is very pure and abundant. Even in dry times, there is ample water in Horton Plains.”

Beyond looks alone, the Horton Plains leopards also adeptly utilise mist as a hunting tool, camouflaging themselves to approach prey discreetly. This adaptation showcases their remarkable intelligence and ability to leverage environmental conditions to their advantage. 

Sankha shared an extraordinary encounter he had been able to observe, where a female leopard, fixated on a sambhur calf, had remained motionless until the mist had enveloped the surroundings. Seizing the opportunity, the leopard had swiftly closed the distance and pounced on the unsuspecting prey. It’s a testament to their ability to use misty conditions not only for offence but also for self-preservation.

The unique combination of nutritional abundance, clean water, and a cold climate positions Horton Plains as an ideal habitat for these leopards. Unlike the arid landscapes of Yala or Wilpattu, where water holes often run dry, Horton Plains offers a consistent supply of water – a vital component in sustaining a healthy population of leopards.

Preserving this unique population

For photographers like Sankha, documenting the lives of Horton Plains leopards is an exercise of patience and persistence. In the earlier days, sightings were rare and encounters were often at a distance. However, as the leopards acclimated to human presence, sightings became more frequent, even occurring in close proximity.

“Before 2019, I would spend days and weeks and I would have just one sighting, but lately, for every two or three days I travel, I see a leopard. Now the leopards are more habituated and sometimes you find them right on the roadside,” Sankha shared. “It’s become easier, and if you’re patient enough, they will come close to you.”

However, Sankha emphasises on the need for patience and respect when photographing these majestic creatures. Over time, he has noticed a shift in the leopards’ behaviour; for while leopards have become more accustomed to the presence of humans, which provides a unique opportunity for photographers to capture intimate moments in the wilds, it is not grounds for photographers, or other visitors, to become an intrusive presence.

“If you are driven by results you won’t get very far,” Sankha said of photographing not just leopards in Horton Plains, but nature and wildlife in general. “You have to focus on spending more time, understanding wildlife and nature and how it works, and results will follow. Don’t go behind results.”

As Sankha’s lens captures the intricacies of Horton Plains leopards, the importance of conservation and awareness becomes evident. The unique behaviours, adaptations, and thriving population of these leopards underscore the delicate balance between nature and the impact of human presence.

‘Ghost of the Clouded Plains’ is available for purchase at Barefoot, Sarasavi bookshops, Vijitha Yapa bookshops, and Rohan Books at Liberty Plaza