• Consultant dermatologist Dr. Indira Kahawita urged consumers to check for institutional registration, SLS/ISO certification/s, ingredients in local languages, manufacturer/ marketing details, and dates of manufacture and expiry

While the much-needed legal reforms concerning cosmetics will take time, people should not wait until those reforms materialise to protect themselves from substandard skincare products. Even if these reforms materialise, a great deal of the responsibility for protecting one’s health and taking action against substandard skincare products still lies with consumers.

Noting this, the Colombo National Hospital’s consultant dermatologist Dr. Indira Kahawita raised concerns about the consumers’ hesitance to initiate action against substandard skincare products. During an interview with The Daily Morning, she further explained that this unwillingness has made it difficult to combat such products.

Following are excerpts from the interview: 

What are the most common complications caused by the use of skincare products that are not up to standard?

Skincare products that are not up to standard may contain certain substances that should not be in such a product. Such commonly known substances include heavy metals such as mercury, and those that cause bleaching. In addition, such products may also contain substances used for health issues other than skincare-related needs, and among them are steroids. However, we have not yet been able to prove (in Sri Lanka) that steroids are included in skincare products. The reason is Sri Lanka not having adequate facilities for that purpose. However, based on the common symptoms observed in those seeking medical assistance, we can say as to whether one is using products containing steroids. The most common side effects that we observe can be attributed to steroid containing products. This is mostly in the case of skin whitening creams. Unlike before, at present, these products are applied to the entire body. A common symptom is the skin on fingers turning unnaturally dark. At the same time, in many cases, the thinning of the skin can also be observed, and this raises concerns about whether the absorption of these drugs through the skin increases. Stretch marks can also be observed. Other countries have shown that heavy metals in these products and those that cause bleaching pose risks, especially when it comes to organs such as kidneys. However, these have not yet been proven in Sri Lanka.

What are the factors that consumers should pay attention to when purchasing a skincare product in order to identify the products that meet the accepted standard?

First of all, consumers should check whether a product has been registered at some entity. When registering a product with the National Medicines Regulatory Authority (NMRA), whether a product meets the minimum criteria is checked. However, the registration of cosmetics is not mandatory. Therefore, many cosmetics are not registered with the NMRA. It should also be checked whether these products have the Sri Lanka Standards (SLS) certification (the certification issued by the SLS Institution) or the International Organisation for Standardisation (ISO) certification (the certification issued by the ISO). There are many fake products in Sri Lanka and some have fake certifications. However, if the certification that a product has obtained is SLS, it can be checked with the SLSI. Secondly, if a product is sold in Sri Lanka, its ingredients should be mentioned in a language that can be understood by a Sri Lankan, i.e. either in Sinhala, Tamil, or English, and not in a foreign language that is not spoken in Sri Lanka. Other details – such as the name of a product’s manufacturer, and in the case of an imported product, the name of the sole agent in Sri Lanka – should also be mentioned. A good quality product mentions the names of both the manufacturer and the marketer, the list of ingredients of the product in a language that can be understood, and the dates of manufacture and expiry. If a product meets all these, we can assume that it meets the relevant standard. However, at present, skincare products are manufactured at salons, and there are courses to teach such things. Generally, when a product is manufactured, be it a type of medicine or cosmetic, the factory in which it is manufactured should have the good manufacturing practices (GMP) certification. It is not something that one can obtain only if they want to. It is mandatory. If I am manufacturing something, it should be manufactured only in a GMP certified plant. Places such as salons where various products are manufactured are not GMP certified. If the manufacturer is reputed and if there is a sole agent in Sri Lanka, we can have some confidence in a product’s quality. We can easily rule out skincare products that don’t have the abovementioned qualities.

What are the immediate steps that one can take in the event of symptoms such as allergic reactions that can be suspected to be a result of skincare products?

First and foremost, the use of the product in question should be stopped immediately. Secondly, if one is experiencing such symptoms, they should visit the nearest public hospital’s skin clinic or a dermatologist. If the symptom is an allergic reaction, which may include scratching, rashes, or difficulty in breathing, one should get admitted to the nearest public hospital. However, if the symptoms include issues such as stretch marks, one should immediately stop the application of the product, and visit a skin clinic or a skin specialist. In many cases, including when one’s skin has turned unnaturally dark or fair, a significant damage has been caused to the skin. If the person experiencing symptoms visits a professional who is not adequately knowledgeable about such conditions, the former may be prescribed products such as creams to apply on the affected skin, which may cause irritation and cause further damage. We should be mindful about that. The immediate step that we take in most cases is dealing with the allergic reaction, and not the scars that may have been caused by it. Therefore, it is best to visit a dermatologist in such cases.

What are the long-term steps that can be taken to address the issue of substandard skincare products in the market and the use of the same?

While steps such as legal changes are necessary, those will take time, and until those changes are made, people should be guided to be more aware and careful about the use of skincare products. In fact, even if legal changes were made, this issue will likely remain until consumers change their attitudes. People should be advised against using skincare products merely because others are doing it, especially when it comes to skin whitening products. 

No safe product can whiten a person’s skin within a few days. Don’t create a need to be fair unnecessarily and within a short period of time, and remember that no safe product can provide such immediate results. Sri Lanka’s situation is such that sellers don’t consider protecting consumers to be their duty. Therefore, consumers should protect themselves. At the same time, despite the unavailability of a local law on cosmetics at present, certain products that cannot be used as cosmetics are sold at stores that sell cosmetics. In such cases, if consumers face any issues, consumers can file a complaint with the Consumers Affairs Authority (CAA). However, according to my experience, most of the patients that seek our assistance are not ready to do that. They are hesitant to file a complaint under their name, and they expect us to do that for them. This issue of consumers’ unwillingness to file complaints and the tendency to endure any harm to them is common. This is despite the fact that the CAA is in a position to do something about such incidents because the CAA Act is a strong one. It is this hesitancy to file complaints that has resulted in the persistence of these issues.