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Review: Michelin-starred Thai cuisine at Ahāra

Review: Michelin-starred Thai cuisine at Ahāra

24 Nov 2024 | By Naveed Rozais

Colombo’s new kid on the hotel block, Amari Colombo officially opens its doors on 1 December, and to kick things off, it recently welcomed Michelin-starred Chef Piyachart ‘Boy’ Puttawong as a Consulting Chef for its signature restaurant, Ahāra, and its renowned Mira Lounge. 

Known for his expertise in blending traditional Thai cuisine with contemporary techniques, Chef Boy’s culinary offerings promise an exciting new chapter for the hotel’s dining experience. 

The Sunday Morning Brunch was recently invited to a tasting of some of Chef Boy’s new menu at Ahāra. The dining experience at Ahāra reflects a commitment to quality and reverence for Asian flavours. While the restaurant will serve a wide variety of cuisine including Western, the centrestage will be occupied by Thai, Japanese, and other Asian flavours. 

The tasting menu, curated and made personally by Chef Boy with the support of Chef Pear Kornkanok Kutranon, Ahāra’s resident Thai chef, offered a thorough introduction to Chef Boy’s take on this flavourful cuisine. The menu offers a range of Thai dishes that showcase the regional variety of Thai food as well as dishes you wouldn’t normally find in Sri Lanka. 


The Chef Boy Thai experience


The meal began with the Thong Mo Hae Niyb, a welcome dish featuring watermelon granita paired with sweet dried fish. This combination immediately set the tone for the meal, showcasing the contrast between the sweet, refreshing granita and the savoury, salty notes of the dried fish. The dish was light and provided a gentle introduction to the more complex flavours to follow.

A selection of appetisers offered a mix of textures and flavours, starting with Kai Kor Lae, a Southern-style grilled chicken. The chicken was tender, with a smoky char from the grilling process, complemented by a blend of spices that offered a subtle heat. This dish was straightforward but well executed, representing the depth of Southern Thai cuisine. 

Next, the Thong Thong, golden pouch dumplings served with Ar Jard sauce, provided a contrast in texture with its crisp exterior and delicate, savoury filling. Similarly, the Lohn Kung, or minced prawn paste in a crispy shell, offered another textural variation. The prawn filling was rich and flavourful, balanced by the light, crispy shell that provided a satisfying crunch. 

Together, these dishes offered a well-rounded introduction to Thai appetisers, each highlighting traditional ingredients with careful attention to preparation.

The next course, Tom Kha Kung, was a traditional sour coconut soup with grilled river prawn. The soup was a delicate balance of creamy coconut milk and tangy, sour notes, with the grilled prawn adding a smoky undertone that elevated the dish. The soup was fragrant and comforting, with the flavours being both familiar and refined. The choice of a giant grilled prawn in place of the usually boiled prawn added a depth of flavour, giving the dish an added layer of complexity.

For the main course, the Khang Khao Waan Kai (traditional Thai green curry with chicken roulade) was a standout. The green curry, a staple in Thai cuisine, was rich and aromatic, with a robust depth of flavour that only comes with careful cooking. 

In this dish, however, the green curry served as more of a sauce with the chicken roulade forming the heart of the dish. The dish offered a modern interpretation of a classic, merging familiar tastes with a more refined texture. The balance of spice, richness, and freshness was evident, as the curry’s heat was tempered by the smoothness of the mousse, creating a harmonious and enjoyable dish.

To conclude the meal, the dessert of Kanom Mor Kaeng offered a traditional Thai sweet in the form of pandan cake and yam mousse with vanilla ice cream. The pandan cake was soft and aromatic, with the distinct, earthy flavour of pandan lending a pleasant, herbal note. The yam mousse, light and smooth, provided a contrast in both flavour and texture, while the vanilla ice cream added a touch of creaminess to the dish. 


The Ahāra experience 


In addition to the culinary craftsmanship, it is worth noting that Chef Boy’s menu at Ahāra also reflects a commitment to sustainability. The use of locally sourced ingredients and an emphasis on ethical sourcing speaks to the broader effort to ensure that the dishes are not only delicious but also responsible. 

This approach is in line with Amari Colombo’s commitment to creating a positive community and environmental impact, ensuring that every meal served is as sustainable as it is flavourful.

Chef Boy’s menu at Ahāra presents a thoughtful and refined take on Thai cuisine. Each dish brings a unique interpretation of traditional flavours, with subtle modern twists that elevate the dining experience without overshadowing the authenticity of the ingredients. 

While the dishes are inventive, they remain rooted in the deep culinary traditions of Thailand, offering both familiar and new experiences to guests. For those seeking a distinctive, high-quality Thai dining experience in Colombo, Chef Boy’s offerings at Ahāra are certainly worth exploring.


PHOTOS KRISHAN KARIYAWASAM



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