• The changing face of Galle Face Green

Located in the bustling heart of Colombo, Sri Lanka’s financial and business capital, Galle Face Green stands as an emblematic landmark along the ocean’s edge. Stretching 500 metres along the coast, this urban park has long been a cherished social hub, drawing locals and visitors alike to its scenic shores. 

From strolls to kite-flying and indulging in a fun variety of street foods, Galle Face Green has epitomised the vibrant spirit of Sri Lankan life for generations. However, recent times have witnessed a notable transformation of this iconic locale, marked by the gradual disappearance of its famed street vendors.

Having grown up in Colombo ourselves, Galle Face holds a special place in our hearts, serving as a cherished destination we frequented throughout our childhood. Its appeal lay not only in its sprawling greenery but also in the sense of freedom it offered, allowing us to play amidst the grass without the constraints of entrance fees or other barriers to access. 

Despite being nestled alongside upscale eateries, the food stalls at Galle Face Green remained refreshingly affordable, making them accessible to people from all walks of life. With its enduring charm and distinctive atmosphere, Galle Face Green became an integral part of our upbringing, shaping our experiences and memories. 

The new Galle Face: The vendor perspective

However, upon visiting Galle Face in recent times, a noticeable change becomes apparent: the absence of the once-famous street vendors along the seaside stretch. Instead, permanent structures erected by the Colombo Port now stand in their place, rented out to shop owners. 

This transition has displaced many of the traditional street food vendors who once thrived in this bustling area. Speaking to some of these traders, it becomes clear that the shift has had significant implications for their livelihoods. 

Indika Lakmal, a former street vendor at Galle Face, shared his experience: “I now work for a shop owner here. I used to be a street vendor, but I now work in this shop owned by another because there is no way I can afford to pay the rent for one of these shops. At least I can get a salary. There are so many others, though, who used to have carts but have not been able to secure even a job like this. They used to be their own bosses; now they have nothing.”

Association of Self-Employed Persons on Galle Face Chairperson Sinhapala Perera echoed these sentiments, expressing concerns about the livelihoods of many vendors. “There are so many who used to have carts out there, and when the Ports Authority asked them to move out, they didn’t have anywhere else to go. I have done business here for so many years but here we are now, working under fear of being evicted at any moment,” he said. 

Perera added: “There were some food vendors who managed to migrate to the roadside, and because that area is governed by the municipality, they have been allowed to stay there. But not everyone could do that.”

Kavindu Gaganakumara, a resident of Colombo and frequent visitor to Galle Face, shared his perspective on the recent changes. As someone who used to operate a food cart in the area, he has witnessed firsthand the transformation brought about by the Ports Authority’s actions. Now, unable to continue his vending business, he visits Galle Face primarily to meet friends who have managed to secure spots at the permanent structures erected in place of the traditional street food stalls. 

Reflecting on the evolving atmosphere of Galle Face, Gaganakumara remarked: “I am looking for other means of income. In the meantime, I come here to help out, etc. I think Galle Face doesn’t have the same vibe it used to when there was a street food community. While I was a vendor, I used to genuinely enjoy it here, but now it feels so corporate and uncomfortable. I think a great disservice has been done to the people of Colombo by removing that ecosystem.”

Speaking to The Sunday Morning Brunch, P. Dharshani, a vendor at Galle Face Green who sells toys and kites, expressed her concerns about the future of her business. “I have heard rumours that the new apartment complex has bought out this stretch, which they can see from their periphery – which means that they will push us out,” she disclosed. 

Having been in business for a decade, Dharshani is uncertain about her options if forced to relocate. “I have my shop on this patch of grass, so the Ports Authority has not pushed me out just yet, but I think it will happen soon,” she lamented.

The new Galle Face: The people’s perspective

Speaking to several visitors at Galle Face regarding the recent changes that involved the removal of street vendors, a common sentiment emerged: the new Galle Face no longer embodies the cherished memories of their childhood. 

Mohammed Hassan, reminiscing about the past, expressed: “Old Galle Face was everything. It meant a lot to me and my family. I have so many memories of coming here, playing until sundown, having a meal especially on a Friday, and then going back.” 

However, he lamented: “I still come because there is not much to do in Colombo and I want to give my child that same experience, but I don’t think we will continue to come because it just doesn’t feel like the social hub it used to be. It had such a sense of community in the past, but now it feels almost like a wasteland.”

Fathima Aisha candidly expressed her disillusionment with the current state of Galle Face. “We don’t enjoy it anymore. I came today with my daughter, but this is actually the first time I came after the vendors were removed. I think I will not bother returning again because it is actually kind of boring,” she remarked. 

Reflecting on her fond memories of the past, she nostalgically added: “When I was younger, this was my favourite place. We used to see so many kites, so many families having picnics, but now it is actually fairly boring.” 

Aisha emphasised on the need for more diverse recreational options in Colombo, stating: “There should be more things to do in Colombo. I know that there is Port City and these malls, but what is the point if they are not fully accessible? 

“Colombo is not homogeneous; there are people of various backgrounds and income levels. To be honest, we don’t want to give our kids the exact same experience all day, every day surrounded by buildings and shops.” 

She lamented the loss of simple pleasures, remarking: “There is only consumerism, but what about watching the sunset while eating an ice cream as the sea breeze envelops you? My children won’t get to experience that and that makes me really sad.”

Miriam Gomez, an expat currently visiting for the Sinhala and Tamil New Year, expressed deep disappointment over the changes in Galle Face. “I was really looking forward to taking a walk down memory lane. I know that things must change, but it is unfortunate that Galle Face has changed in this way,” she lamented. 

Gomez highlighted the importance of preserving the functions served by old practices. “If the authorities are removing old practices, they must look at the functions they serve. If they cannot replace those functions, they should try to change them,” she argued. 

Observing the sparse crowd on a Friday evening, she remarked: “Look at how few people are here today on a Friday evening. This is not the Galle Face I used to know and love. In the past, it would be packed. It would be a struggle to catch a patch of grass for yourself, yet it was so fun.” 

Recalling the vibrant atmosphere of the past, Gomez reminisced: “Do you remember the amount of kites in the sky? It was almost chaos with all of the strings tangled up, and everyone just laughing and toppling over one another to untangle their strings. There was so much community, but now it is just grey and boring.”

The most common sentiment among those who frequented the area is one of disappointment and nostalgia for the vibrant atmosphere that once characterised Galle Face. There is a collective desire for the restoration of the social hub that brought together people from all walks of life, fostering a sense of community and enjoyment. 

It remains to be seen whether authorities will heed these sentiments and take action to address the concerns raised by those who cherish the unique heritage of Galle Face.